☆RESOURCES☆

This page details a list of resources and knowledge I've collected over the years about Furbys- including purchasing, restoration, and customization.

Where to find Furbys?

E-commerce websites

  • Ebay (International)
  • Mercari (US/Japan *)
  • Yahoo! Auctions Japan *
  • Facebook Marketplace (International)
  • ShopGoodwill (US, functions on auctions only)
  • Craigslist (US)
  • Kijiji (Canada)
  • Poshmark (Canada)
  • Depop (International)
  • Vinted (International)

* = These will likely require the use of a proxy service if you live outside of the country

I also highly recommend joining some Furby fan groups on Facebook- these are often organized by fans who know the worth of their Furbys and won’t price gouge you. It also might be worth your while to keep an eye on communities on social media platforms like Tumblr (tagged as “#Furby for sale”), Reddit (under r/furbyforsale) and Instagram for good deals on Furbys.

Physical locations

  • Thrift stores
  • Flea markets
  • Retro/vintage/antique stores (Whether specific to toys or not)
  • Yard/garage sales

What's a fair price?

A lot of newcomers make the mistake of paying more than they’re willing to on their first Furby(s) because they’re under the impression that retro Furbys are worth more than they really are. It’s important to remember that most retro Furbys were mass-produced toys that were made in very high quantities, and thus were very readily available worldwide.

While there was a phase back when the toy first released of people having to fight with price gougers because there wasn’t enough stock, Tiger Electronics saw the increasing demand for the product and followed suit with producing each next generation in higher quantities. However, once the fad died and the Furby economy crashed from there being so many Furbys being produced at once, the Furby has since lost a lot of the value that it once had.

Though of course, there’s some Furbys that go for more money than others for a variety of factors- they’re either a limited-run special edition, a colour that is more sought after, or part of a generation that had less stock produced.

That being said, Furbys are only worth what someone is willing to pay for them. Some people may be willing to drop up to $70 for certain colours of adult Furbys, while others have a stricter budget- and for those who do have that type of budget, I want you to know that it is possible. By finding the right sellers on the right website or in the right physical location and having the patience to find them, you’re guaranteed to find a Furby that you’re able to pay for.

Price guides

Here are a few of my favourite resources when it comes to figuring out the value of certain Furbys. Most of these are specific to the 90’s models.

Restoration

General

90's specific

Shelby specific

2012/Boom specific

Customization

General

90's specific

2012/Boom specific

  • Custom eyes - Edmond-Gray-The-Long-Furby
    • Editor's note: I don’t really like this tutorial for the lack of visuals but it’s the only one I’ve been able to find for making custom 2012 eyes.

Uncategorized

General

90's specific

2012/Boom specific

Recommended Materials

Other recommendations

These are some other recommended materials that I think are important to have, depending on your project, but I don't have a specific brand in mind for them. Of course, this is nowhere near an exhaustive list, nor is everything on it going to apply to every custom or restoration project, so adjust this list to your discretion.

  • X-Acto knife
  • Seam ripper
  • Nail cutters
  • Sand paper (Smoothing out carving and priming surfaces before painting/after sealing)
  • Acrylic paints
  • Sealing varnish (Matte and/or glossy, depending on what type of finish you want)
  • Hot glue gun + glue sticks
  • Superglue (I prefer industrial-grade
  • Polymer and/or air dry clay (Depending on what you want it for)
    • Editor’s note: Air dry is better for repairing mistakes when carving, but tends to crack more when drying. Polymer clay is better for add-ons in customizing, like handmade clay charms or earrings.
  • Isopropyl alcohol (Paint/glue/rust/corrosion removal. Do be aware, however, that different types of plastic can react differently to isopropyl alcohol, so use with caution.)
  • Q-tips (Paint/glue/rust/corrosion removal)
  • Toothbrush (Glue/rust/corrosion removal)
  • Glossy photo paper
  • Pin backs (If you wish to attach charms and accessories this way for easy removal)
  • Small bowl (For temporarily storing screws and other Furby parts)
  • Small cups or glasses (For mixing dye mixtures)
DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, USE ACETONE ON ANY PART OF THE FURBY. THIS WILL LIKELY CAUSE THE PLASTICS TO BE RUINED PERMANENTLY OR EVEN MELT.

Tips

Restoration

  • Every Furby is constructed differently based on the factory they came from. These are a few things to expect:
    • Faceplates may be attached to the shell by using hot glue, clips, or screws (Babies will almost always have their faceplates attached with screws.)
    • Some factory models have the rods in the Furby's facial features slide out easily, while others require more strength to pull out with a pair of pliers.
      • If this also doesn't work, you may need to spray a bit of WD-40 on the rods and let it sit before trying to pull them out again. DO NOT SPRAY IT INTO THE GEARS OR MOTOR, THIS MAY RUIN YOUR FURBY AND POTENTIALLY RENDER IT NON-WORKING.
  • Brush out the pelt of your Furby with a slicker brush after washing, before and after it’s completely dry, in all directions. Make sure you’re not pulling out clumps of hair, otherwise you may be brushing too hard or with the wrong brush.
  • Once you cut the threads keeping the ear fabric to the bones, this means that they will come off the bones very easily since there’s nothing holding them on. Instead of just sewing the ears back on, I prefer to use earrings that I stick through the fabric and through the holes of the bone. It’s an easy way to get the ears off the bones for future repairs, and it makes your Furby look stylish!

Customization

  • If you’re unable to get the eye chips out using the hot glue stick method (I’ve never been able to do this myself,) you may have to disassemble the furby to get the eye domes out, locate a pin-sized hole on the back, and poke them out with something that is thin enough to fit in these holes (I like to use a paperclip.) This will likely leave a transparent hole in the default eye printing, so this might not be the best method if you intend on keeping these eyes in good condition for whatever reason.
  • Prime any plastic surfaces you plan on painting by using sandpaper on it, and again after applying your sealant of choice.
  • Thin out your paint with a little bit of water before applying. Alternatively, paint in thin layers.
  • For disabled customizers: Use adaptive tools! A few of my favourites include oval pencil grips (cut down the middle to fit any size of paintbrush or pen/pencil,) paintbrushes with built-in bulbs, and compression arthritis gloves. I also love using finger splints, but these are customized specifically to the person and often require you to measure the size of your fingers according to the sizing chart of whichever brand of splints you buy.